Pianoro, Emilia-Romagna

Perched above the town of Pianoro, half an hour south of Bologna amid endless rolling green hills, sits Scandelara. The estate spans 52 hectares, including expansive forest, small lakes, mixed agriculture, and 3.5 hectares of organically tended vines. Owner, farmer and vigneron Mattia Donini is well-spoken and vivacious. He took over the property from his father in 2018 after studying oenology and working in wine regions abroad -Burgundy, Australia, New Zealand and Argentina. Returning with energy and new ideas, he set the estate on a fresh course. Just eight years in, the results are already remarkable.

The vineyards on the hill of Scandelara are divided between two plots. The first, planted by Mattia’s father in 1983, is a tiny 0.5 hectares of Pinot Bianco, Albana, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Riesling Italico. The second plot, purchased in 2000, is a cool, windy, north-facing site well suited to rising temperatures. Planted on predominantly calcareous blue clay soils are Chardonnay, Manzoni Bianco, Pignoletto and Barbera. Yields here are extremely low due to wind and poor soils, producing wines of striking concentration with a savoury, mineral undertow. The property further includes fruit trees, olive groves and even barley grown for the estate’s Blonde Ale.

In recent years Mattia has also purchased additional vineyards in the Bolognese Hills west of Bologna’s historic centre.

All vineyards and agriculture are organically certified and integrated with biodynamic practices. In the cellar, fermentation in stainless steel preserves freshness, while older oak is sometimes used for élevage to add depth. Fermentations are spontaneous, with no filtration or fining, and sulphur used sparingly only when needed for stability.